Spill Guard: Completion

The first step is to affix foam blanks onto the base of the guard. This foam will be carved into the desired shape of the upper guard, and then used as the mold for the fiberglass. Carving the foam into a suitable shape requires a great deal of artistic talent, or a friend with a great deal of artistic talent. I opted for option b.

The inside shape is not critical. Once the outside layer of fiberglass has set, the foam can be destructively removed, and a separate inside layer can be added.

The finished mold should look totally awesome and slick. Remember that when working with fiberglass, the quality of your final piece will depend almost entirely on the quality of your mold. Pay extra attention at this step to avoid headaches in the future. Note that any existing fiberglass should receive a light sanding to provide the new resin with more surface area for bonding. Also note that applying fiberglass in this fashion will result in a bonding interface that is held together only by resin, without any glass reinforcement. Therefore this technique should be avoided when producing structural components.

Place the mold in a configuration which allows suitable access to all surfaces which are to receive fiberglass. Protect your work surface with paper, plastic, or something else which the resin won't just seep through.

This is important. Pre cut and lay out the pieces of fiberglass cloth which you will need before you mix your resin. Once the resin is mixed, you will have very limited time to work with it before it sets up on you. If you have to spend time trying to cut up additional pieces of cloth, you might not make it.

Chopped fiberglass cloth is used for the first layer. Its less defined structure lets it assume more complicated shapes more easily than the more constrained woven cloth. Be warned though that it will also soak up more resin, and result in a thicker, heavier piece. Mesh cloth is used as a top layer because it provides a superior finish.

Mix together your resin and hardener as specified by the manufacturer.

Using a brush, begin applying the resin and fiberglass to the mold.

Continue working the resin into the fiberglass, being careful to avoid trapping air bubbles, particularly in the more complicated areas of the mold.

Apply the fiberglass mesh to provide a nicer surface.

Let the piece sit until the fiberglass has set. This can take anywhere from 30 minutes to 4 hours depending on atmospheric conditions, and how appropriately you mixed your resin.

Clean anything you don't want to have covered in plastic with acetone right away.

Once the piece has set, you can remove it, and begin marking the edges for any trimming.

After cutting away the rough edge, the part has begun to look much cleaner.

Additional fiberglass can then be laid out to create the interior contours required for the part to channel the excess fuel properly.

The application process is the same as before.

After additional trimming and sanding, the part has achieved its final morphology.

At this point, test fitting the part is possible.

It was especially important to ensure that it did not contact the exhaust system . . .

. . . that it cleared all structural members . . .

. . . that it seated properly on the tank . . .

. . . and that it did not interfere with any aspects of engine operation.

The guard was then painted.

And a large diameter drain hose was fitted at the low point of the interior.

A drain screen was included to prevent irreparable clogging during a race, as was a problem in the past.

I welcome your questions, comments, and concerns.